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Alexander Coe |
Playability |
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I have been playing the for 7 years or so but I've been consumed with my playing ability, never really paying attention to equipment technicalities.
I've been reading lately about the differences in guitars but most literature has talked about the sound of the guitar rather than the function (if you can
imagine them being separate things!) In short, I am wondering if I can be helped to learn the specifics of guitars that help playing ability rather than the
sound produced by that playing. Things I am specifically concerned with are being able to play effortlessly via strings and fret boards that are easy to play.
I know it is a broad topic (and probably a trite one) so perhaps instant messenger communication could work!
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Paul Kucharski |
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Well, actually it could be a rather short topic. The main things are:
1. String spacing at the nut and at the soundhole Fingerstyle playing tends to be easier for most with wider spacing at both points 2. Action playing higher up the fretboard is easier with better action. This is adjustable to most any guitar 3. The neck profile. This is very much a preference thing and will be unique for each player. 4. The frets Again, this tends to be a preference thing, but some think the jumbo frets make fretting easier. You won't find many guitars with widely different frets however. The Ed Gerhard Breedlove model is one that comes to mind with the jumbo frets.
Webmaster
http://www.acousticfingerstyle.com |
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hemet.theunofficialma... |
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Setup by a pro is #1 but beyond that better guitars, more expensive, play better. Beyond that I think that Ebony and Pau Ferro fretboards are a little faster.
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Alexander Coe |
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I'm going to be a super newbie asking these questions but I'm not sure of the answers so:
1) What do you find is a good string spacing? I know classical guitars are normally 2" but that seems hard to wrap a thumb around when necessary. Are there other nut measurements between 2" and 1 3/4"? 2) What does action actually describe? Is it the measurement of space between the string and fret or a descriptive word of how it plays? 3) Neck profile would be the curvature of the back of the neck? I had thought they were pretty standard among rounded necks. 4) I don't know what jumbo frets are. I assume they are longer length (making the neck longer?) I will look into it! And of course, thank you. |
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Paul Kucharski |
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1) What do you find is a good string spacing? I know classical guitars are normally 2" but that seems hard to wrap a thumb around when necessary. Are
there other nut measurements between 2" and 1 3/4"? Correct, classical guitars are all 2" wide. Fingerstyle players tend to prefer a 1 3/4"
spacing at the nut, but there are some guitars that are tad wider. You can find some that are 1 7/8" and some with metric widths that are somewhere in
between that the 1 3/4". The other most common width is 1 11/16". That is the typical dreadnought or jumbo guitar neck width. Great for the strummer
playing bar chords or flatpicking. 2) What does action actually describe? Is it the measurement of space between the string and fret or a descriptive word of
how it plays? This is typically measured by measuring the distance of the strings above the 12th fret. The closer the strings are to the top of the 12th fret,
the better the action. This height is the primary adjustment made when you take your guitar in for a "setup". The saddle is adjusted, the neck truss
rod is adjusted etc to set the height to a players preference. You can find more on this at my web sites FAQ pages. 3) Neck profile would be the curvature of
the back of the neck? I had thought they were pretty standard among rounded necks. Actually that may seem to be the case, but it varies a lot based on the
manufacturer. Also some vendors like Martin make guitars that are suppose to duplicate a vintage model. With that they duplicate the neck profile from that
era. Quite different than today since back then they didn't have truss rods, so they made the necks much thicker. 4) I don't know what jumbo frets are.
I assume they are longer length (making the neck longer?) I will look into it! These are frets that can a slightly higher crown above the fretboard. So they
sit just a tad higher than regular frets and they tend to pinch off the string with a little less pressure.
Webmaster
http://www.acousticfingerstyle.com |
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Alexander Coe |
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Thank you for your great site and help. I wonder if we can drift off topic, in a topic...
I played a number of guitars I had never played before today. I was at the local guitar center and played, namely, a $7,000 Martin guitar (The Clapton signature model) and a $300 Takamine GS330S. I was playing better on, and liked the sound more of, the cheaper guitar. Why would that be? Does it boil down to me being a novice? Because I am alright with that, I just want to know! |
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Paul Kucharski |
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Hard to say. Could be as simple as the strings on the Martin were dead and the string on the TAK were new. Martin's also are notorious for coming out of
the factory with less then ideal action. Most always need to be set up after you first buy them. Tak's may have better setups on the showroom floor and
therefore may play better when you first pick them up.
..or maybe you just felt better knowing the guitar wouldn't cost you and arm and a leg.
Webmaster
http://www.acousticfingerstyle.com |
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Alexander Coe |
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Thanks again, for that. I think I got the answers I've been looking for so I am going to try and get some experience in the field. A new purchase is in my
future.
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